This year for Watches and Wonders 2023, Panerai are celebrating the Radiomir heritage by introducing and revamping a whole new range of models that are novel in size, material and design. Panerai have seemingly left out the other collections (Luminor, Submersible and Due) with a strong focus on refining and updating the Radiomir, as the Luminor and Submersible are understandably more popular.
With a core Panerai community having an affinity for the classic “DNA” designs that nod to Panerai’s history, Panerai have heard the moans and groans of Paneristi calling for a reinvigoration of classic pieces that also have novel innovations.
The New Brunito eSteel
The most significant news is the introduction of Brunito eSteel. Panerai’s eSteel was introduced in 2021, firstly within the Luminor range as a modern and fresh release, boasting a steel case made up of 98.6% recycled material. The Submersible eSteel followed this release in 2022, so now the Radiomir follows in 2023.
However, the Radiomir’s eSteel has a twist; it’s called Brunito eSteel. ‘Brunito’ means ‘Burnished’ in English; a type of polished metal. Panerai say “Every Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel™ case is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned look, giving each watch a unique character.” The seasoned look is created by Physical Vapor Deposition followed by individual hand-finishing, then tumble-polishing to partially wear off the coating, resulting in a worn appearance.
One can guess that the inspiration behind Brunito eSteel is to create a rugged, military look reminiscent of Panerai’s history of association with the Italian Navy.
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni PAM01348
The first of three Brunito eSteel pieces is the Radiomir Otto Giorni PAM01348. With a design based on the PAM992, this model features a 45mm case housing the P.5000, Degradé blue with luminous arabic numerals and hour markers, with small second at 9 o’clock and the 8 Giorni Brevettato at the 3 o’clock.
The domed crystal on the PAM1348 is a plus, creating a slight distortion to the markers depending on the angle the watch is viewed from.
Panerai Radiomir Otto Giorni PAM01347
This Radiomir Otto Giorni PAM01347 is essentially the same, except it features a grainy dark brown dial that nods to vintage watches with anodized aluminium dials. It contrasts very nicely with the blue hands, and the strap works well with the dial.
The PAM01347 and PAM01348 watches are designed for individuals who appreciate the Panerai style but desire a more contemporary aesthetic featuring updated colors and textures. These new releases are sensible and successful in fulfilling the needs of this specific market.
Panerai Radiomir California Dial PAM01349
This PAM01349 features the California dial, which is a combination of Roman and Arabic numerals, drawing inspiration from the Panerai Ref 3646. The unique features of this California dial include green lume, metallic blue hands, and a domed sapphire crystal reminiscent of the early Radiomirs commissioned for the military and crafted with Plexiglas® crystal.
It is worth noting that this is the inaugural instance of a 45mm Radiomir being equipped with a California dial, given that this dial has typically been reserved for Panerai watches with a 47mm case size. The green textured dial really sets off the piece, giving an overall design worthy of having a place in a Panerai collector’s portfolio.
